Raising the bar for cheap eats
For lunch, dinner or a midnight meal, El Rey Cantina serves it up with style — families welcome
By Michael Sullivan 07/03/2008
El Rey Cantina
294 E. Main St.
Ventura
653-1111
$3-$9.50
It was a Saturday night, and the sun was just setting as my roommate, his three young kids and I meandered through Downtown Ventura looking for a place that would accommodate us. We figured we were going to have to choose between the high-end, high-priced bistros, the moderately priced Eastern eateries with cuisine choices the kids would scoff at, or a national chain for a quick sandwich and a bag of chips.
Then we saw the sandwich board in front of El Rey Cantina, which read, “We serve lunch and dinner daily.” We ducked under the curtain shrouding the entrance, and to our surprise, we saw a number of families, including their children, sitting in the booths while the twentysomethings (and older) hung out at the bar — a perfect fit for us, as it combined the family feel with a hip place for young adults to relax in and cut loose.
The ambience was eclectic, with oil (or airbrushed) paintings of Elvis Presley mounted on a concave ceiling, a wallpaper collage of Mexican band posters on the back wall and retro-style booths and barstools.
To my disappointment, there was no beer on tap, and only a limited selection of American beers, with no European beers. If you were expecting to get a pitcher of Stella Artois, best to look somewhere else.
But it is all in the name — Cantina — and I should have known better. They boasted a variety of Mexican beers, enough mixed tequila drinks and shots to get a horse sloshed, and of course, for wine drinkers, a small, dignified list of varietals.
We didn’t come there for the drinks, however, even though El Rey is renowned as a tequila bar most hit up during the wee hours of a night. We came there for the food. And another surprise, despite what I would consider plush surroundings with its star-shaped lights, crystal chandeliers and smoky mirrors, the menu, even though limited, was reasonably cheap.
As soon as we all sat down, a courteous waitress with tattoos adorning her arm greeted us with crisp tortilla chips and fresh salsa. She was quick to get us our drinks and, despite the kids being loud and rambunctious, she showed no sign of aggravation.
My roommate ordered the nachos and the chicken quesadilla (Quesadilla Boracha) for his children to split, the Trio of Enchiladas with chicken for himself, and I had the Seared Ahi Burrito — sushi style.
The food came out so quickly I could barely keep track of the time it took to get to us. And the waitress was highly accommodating, bringing more chips and salsa to keep the kids entertained.
Fortunately, I was able to try four of the dishes and had to be careful not to gorge myself. The Ahi burrito, the most expensive dish at $9.50 on the menu, was delicious. Fresh Ahi tuna, uncooked, rolled in a tortilla with green cabbage, avocado, roasted pepper and chipotle sauce, then cut into sushi-style rolls topped with Feta cheese. For the enchilada dish, each enchilada was doused in a different sauce — green, red and white, the colors of the Mexican flag. For the nachos, tortilla chips topped with refried beans, which must have been prepared in-house because they didn’t taste heavy like typical canned beans, fresh tomatoes, cilantro, sour cream and freshly prepared, mouthwatering guacamole. It also came with jalapeños, but they lacked spice. The quesadilla included three cheeses, tomatoes, onions, roasted pepper and tequila chicken. For an adult, most would love it. But for the kids, I would suggest just the cheese and chicken.
After munching on the delectable Mexican fair until we were full, we still had food left over to take home.
The total price for four meals, four sodas and two beers plus free chips and salsa and satisfied bellies: $55.77.
The bar for my cheap-eats standards has been raised, and not only that, I can bring my own son and not feel like I am hampering the atmosphere of this eclectic place. And for those in search of a late night snack, El Rey Cantina’s kitchen stays open until 1 a.m. every day.
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