Backcountry island beach camping worth the effort
By Alex Wilson 10/15/2009
It was a perfect, sunny day along the Southern California coast, and ours were the only footsteps in the sand.
The divine solitude was possible thanks to a free backcountry beach camping permit for Santa Rosa Island, and the long hike required to access secluded beaches.
My wife Dawn and I were joined by our friend Dawn Brooks for the voyage from Ventura Harbor to Channel Islands National Park.
Island Packers cruises efficiently transported visitors and their gear to shore at Bechers Bay in small, inflatable motor boats.
We splashed through waves and landed on the sand because the 19th century pier from the island’s cattle ranching days is currently being replaced.
The hike to the southern side of the island is scenic but grueling, with numerous dips and inclines through the rolling hills.
As we traveled down old ranch roads toward Ford Point, we marveled at the clarity of the ocean water, where swaying kelp was clearly visible, and sea lions popped their heads up to look at us.
Tide pools were amazingly rich and included a carpet of tiny colorful sea anemones, starfish and gooseneck barnacles.
Our campsite had picturesque views of the ocean and hills covered with yellow flowers. But it was completely unimproved, and we had to carefully avoid a dilapidated barbed wire fence running through camp.
Eventually we encountered three other groups of backpackers, who found their own secluded coves and beaches.
One couple enjoyed hiking around, and poking through the tide pools. Another group of four young men and women snorkeled through the aquamarine waters, and speared a fish to cook on the beach. A man traveling solo seemed to enjoy the quiet and solitude.
Our posse was happy to beach comb, and enjoy the sunshine and the wildlife. As we sunbathed, one sea lion hauled out on the sand near us to warm up. An adorable little spotted skunk ran up to us and jumped on Dawn Brooks’ leg like a puppy. Flying above us were pelicans, hawks and cormorants. Deer with impressive antlers ran swiftly up steep hillsides.
Accessing the amazing backcountry terrain is challenging, and requires more than ten miles of backpacking from Bechers Bay. Strong winds are a normal occurrence on Santa Rosa. There were times we had to lean into it to avoid getting pushed over.
The only reliable fresh water source we found on the island’s south side was at Clapp Spring, a few uphill miles from the beaches. After hours of hiking, we thought it was the sweetest water we’d ever drunk and tasted like peaches.
Backcountry beach camping is permitted between summer and December, when marine mammals are not using the beaches for breeding.
Areas open for beach camping are also limited by deer and elk hunts organized by the island’s former owners that will end in 2011, when they’re required to eliminate the last of the herd.
Adventurers who want to hike or kayak to backcountry destinations need to talk with Park Service Rangers beforehand.
People hoping to experience the amazing beauty of Santa Rosa Island have a more luxurious option at the Water Canyon Campground, where trees grow at stunningly beautiful angles out of steep hillsides, and fascinating geology is revealed where a river has scoured away at mountains.
The campground features flush toilets and a solar shower, and every site has a large windbreak. But campers there still sometimes retreat to a large cave near the restrooms when it gets so windy they can’t sleep in their flapping tents.
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